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24 pin PSU kabel sleeven voor dummies.

Sleeven

Hee!

Ik krijg dus dinsdag m'n sleeve binnen voor the Black Box!
Maar, is dat nu lastig? hebben jullie nog tips? Want ik vind de 24 pin mobo aansluiting vooral eng :p
straks krijg ik hem niet meer goed in elkaar.

Groeten,
Daan
 
Hoe doen jullie dat met de headshrinks? halen jullie die over de 24 pin cable heen, of laten jullie hem eronder stoppen?

Ik vind het maar lastig:p

Morgen komt mn sleeve set, dus dan maar is kijken wat ik er van bak:D
 
Ik hoop dat je engels een beetje goed is....
Deze tutorial krijg je als je bij MDPC-X besteld...



PERFECT SLEEVING: Private tutorial (top-secret, just for you!)
MDPC Sleeve and heatshrink are specifically developed for every situation in your system. You will experience that every MDPC material is just 100% right - exactly right on the millimeter. But you need to know the little tricks to get a perfekt result.
1. ANTI-FRAYING: After cutting the sleeve, you need to melt the end of the sleeve (just the cut area) a little bit by using a lighter. This is the key to prevent fraying that could happen when you expand the sleeve. If you have problems getting the melted end over the connector of the SATA data cable, then you can stick the finger into the opening of the sleeve and "loose the melted cut" a little bit.
2. PUT SLEEVE ON THE CABLE: You put the sleeve on the cable by using the so called caterpillar-technique (moves like the animal). You hold it at the front, push from the back, hold it at the back, let the front go. This is done again and again. To prevent that the pins get stuck in the sleeve, you can put tape around the pin.
3. ACHIEVE NON-SEE-THROUGH AND PERFECT CUT-LENGTHS: Non-see-through with MDPC-Sleeve is achieved by stretching the sleeve (get ist as long as possible), because it closes the weave structure. That is the key! To measure the perfect length for this technique, do the following: Put the sleeve (uncut) on the target-cable, there you stretch it as much as possible. When you have the correct position, mark the position where you want to cut. Take the sleeve off the cable a little bit, cut it and melt the end with a lighter. In case of the SATA-sleeve you can get the last percent of non-seethrough by using electrical tape (same color as your sleevE) on the cable (lengthwise) before you sleeve.
4. HOLDING THE STRETCHED STATE OF THE SLEEVE: To hold the maximum stretch of the sleeve, the heatshink needs to be attached that it can't slide on the cable. MDPC does not use glue-lined heatshrink, because it would be too ugly when the glue comes out of the end. Usability if you want to re-shrink would be unacceptable too. With the MDPC tricks, it's easy to get a perfect hold: You can shrink OVER the pin (exactly as far as shown here http://img1.abload.de/img/netzteilsleeven08n5gr.jpg ). This is possible because MDPC heatshrink as the thinnest possible wall thickness ever! It goes deep and seamless into the connector and nothing can make the shrink slide anymore, if you work exactly as shown. The part that goes over the Sleeve doesn't need to be longer than 4-5mm if the ends of the sleeve were melted. Once you found your sleeve and heatshrink length that works best for you, cut all shrink lengths exactly the same to get an identical end result on every cable. If you don't have a pin where you can "shrink onto", then there is the second trick against sliding: Take a 4-5mm wide piece of SMALL heatshrink. This you put onto the transition of sleeve and blank cable (50-50). Shrink it. Then you take another SMALL heatshrink of 14mm length and position it over the previously attached heatshrink ... and shrink it. This double pressure prevents any sliding when the sleeve is stretched! :)
5. PERFECT SHRINKING: Heatshrink of MDPC can't burn like cheap materials, but it might melt if too much heat is used for too long. I always use a lighter with a long flame when I work with SMALL and SATA heatshrink. With the lower part of the long flame you go through the heatshrink in a wave-movement. Every 2-3 seconds you make a break. Twist the cable so that you can reach the "not heated" parts of the heatshrink. Continue the oscillating motion. The last part you shrink is the transition close to the sleeve. There you need to be careful not to burn the sleeve. When using colored heatshrink or the BIG- or JUMBO-heatshrink, I recommend not to use a lighter. Use a heatgun for these cases to get perfect results! Otherwise you could get groom onto color or worse in case of the very big heatshrinks. In the rare case that the SATA-heatshrink doesn't go over the connector, do the following: Use a long nosed plier and widen the shrink from the inside. Once widened with this technique, you put it (alone) over the connector. Be careful then when you heat it up, because it will become a little bit more fragile.
5B. SHRINK LENGTH: Just cut a template piece. Then you cut others with the same length. Then you position the heatshrink "on the pin" (as shown in the photo-link). Then you half-shrink the heatshrink, so you can adjust the position "over the pin" to correct small differences in your cutting length. Then you fully heat the heatshrink. That is the procedure. Perfection is never "quick and supereasy", it needs concentration and feeling :)
6. MAKING BEAUTIFUL SLEEVE-PHOTOS: Never ever show sleeve photos that were done with flashlight. Even photos done under normal room light don't show the true beauty! The best pictures are done close to a window where daylight comes in (but not direct sunlight!) You will get the absolute perfect photo light when the sky is covered with clouds. If you do photos with that light condition, you will get the most beautiful photos of you sleeve. Everyone will love it! Give it a try and be amazed! :)
 
Sleeve aan de uiteinden ook iets verwarmen met een aansteker. Niet te lang, een seconde is eigenlijk al te lang. Zorgt ervoor dat de sleeve niet rafelt als je het over de kabels heen doet ;).
 
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